Reviews

Get Spiced NYC is LIVE!
05.01.12

I’m proud to announce the birth of a new food project. It’s a web food series called Get Spiced NYC and after many months of work, the fist episode is finally LIVE!
In each episode, we’ll sample 1 dish in 3 different spots and give you the verdict, so you can discover the city’s diversity along with us, one neighborhood at a time. Come along for the ride.

Spotlight: Hanoi-Havana Tasting at Zengo
04.20.12

Lechon Asado with Vermicelli

Spring is here, which means the perfect time to try something new. Zengo, a Latin-Asian restaurant owned by celebrated Chef Richard Sandoval is doing just that. It has created a special tasting menu available through June that combines flavor profiles shared by Vietnamese and Cuban cuisine. Does it succeed? Let’s take a look. more »

The Morning Glory Inn: A Sweet Retreat
02.14.12

Renate Wilhem serves breakfast

“My heart is in America, but my soul is in Germany,” said Renate Wilhem, owner of The Morning Glory Inn, a cozy Bed & Breakfast located in the northern wine region of Long Island, New York. On an unusually cold night this winter, we drove 2 1/2 hours east to find ourselves in a part of the state best known as the escape of choice for sun-starved New Yorkers. We soon discovered that two short ferry rides to the north of the Hamptons put us in the middle of New England wine country. more »

Food 52 Holiday Recipe and Survival Guide
12.21.11

An interactive Holiday cookbook? How brilliant is that! A few days ago, I came across the launch of Food 52 Holiday Recipe and Survival Guide, and was giddy to find its nifty collection of Holiday recipes. I’ve downloaded digital cookbooks before, and they are usually striking and beautiful, but feel that they miss one key component: usability. The digital pages of the Food 52 cookbook for the iPad, on the other hand, are filled with photos, easy-to-follow instructional videos, slideshows, shopping resources – and everything has been integrated seamlessly throughout. It also has user-friendly features like notes and bookmarks that allow you to scribble digital notes and save the recipes you want to make in the future. more »

Diary of a CSA
06.22.11

Strawberries for a summer spritzer

This year I finally remembered to join a local CSA. For those of you who are wondering what the heck I’m talking about, it’s a Community-Supported Agriculture program that connects you with a local farm so you get fresh, seasonal produce every week straight from the farm. Think of it as a farmer’s market club membership, except that instead of having to go to the farmer’s market, the market comes to you! A few months ago, after some extensive research, I came across the Chelsea CSA, which is supplied by Stoneledge Farm, run by the Kavakos family and located in upstate New York. Every Tuesday night from June through August, I will rush out of the office with paper bags in tow to pick up my vegetable share at Hudson Guild on 26th street. more »

The Herbfarm Restaurant: A Gift of the Earth
05.12.11

Edible herbs and flowers from the garden

My cheeks were flushed. My head swirled in wine-induced hyperreality. I raised the silver goblet of water to my lips to help dilute the copious amounts of wine that were now coursing through my veins. The sixth dish of the night arrived, “Young Milk Lamb”, with luscious and delicate slices of suckling lamb contrasting with a firm and juicy medallion of pastured lamb. They were nestled in a lime green whip of shallot mashed potatoes and punctuated by a spiraled fiddlehead fern, which I had seen at the market earlier that morning. The lamb had been sourced from a farm nearby. “This is the perfect example of sustainability,” said Chris Weber, the 25-year-old chef that headed the kitchen at the HerbFarm restaurant in Woodinville, Washington. more »

Organics 2.0
04.02.11

Spring is on its way, and with it a bounty of fresh produce

These days, it seems that everywhere you turn, there’s an organic counterpart to a product you’re consuming: shampoo, vegetables, dairy, even cosmetics. Their labels usually market the product as “All Natural” and “100% Organic” and are typically more expensive. But are these products worth the higher cost and most importantly, do they deliver on their claim? Keep reading to discover what you need to know to shop organics the smart way.

It’s easy to shop organic.
FALSE.

In the past few years, manufacturers have leveraged the country’s obsession with healthier eating by producing more organic products. However, for a product to have a USDA-certified organic sticker and be certified organic, it must be composed of at least 95% organic ingredients. Consumers are easily misled by those products with the word “organic” on their label, and often end up paying more for a product that has organic ingredients, but isn’t certified organic.
Diane Hoch, nutritional health counselor and founder of Food Evolution, a nutrition and cooking center in Bardonia, New York, defines the word “organic” in simple terms: “Organic is how nature intended food to be.” When shopping for produce, she suggests looking at the PLU sticker. A number 9 in front of the 4-digit number indicates the product is organic; an 8 indicates that the product has been genetically modified (yuck!).
In shopping for poultry, she recommends you look for “Free Range Organic” on the label or labeling that says “Hormone Free, Antibiotic Free” or “raised on a vegetarian diet without the use of hormones, antibiotics, steroids”. Ideally, beef should be “Grass Fed Organic” and/or purchased directly from a farm.

Organic food means more healthful food.
DEPENDS.

Organic food is food that hasn’t’ been grown using pesticides or chemical additives. It is food that doesn’t come from GMO’s (genetically modified organisms) that have been developed inside a lab, instead of in an open field. Traditionally, food was farmed in a system of rotating crops that would attract pollinators and give the earth time to replenish itself. Contemporary industrial agriculture subsists on a monoculture focused mostly on the crops of corn and soy. Thus, farmers have had to resort to using chemicals and pesticides in order to grow their crops because the earth is literally exhausted.

Virginia Schiffino, former Associate Professor of the NYU Food Studies Program, believes that organic good doesn’t equal healthful food, since now organic versions of junk food are now readily available. “I’d’ rather buy a nonorganic brussels sprouts than an organic box of cereal,” she says.

You can be eating food that’s organic that doesn’t have organic certification.
TRUE.

When you visit your local fresh market, it’s possible to buy food that’s organic without being organically certified. There are costs involved in acquiring an organic certification, so those producers whose annual sales don’t exceed $5,000 are exempted from the certification. You can often find this produce at your local farmer’s market, or at CSA’s (Community Supported Agriculture) programs, where it’s possible to visit the farm and ask the farmer directly about the kind of growing methods that are used.

Products need to be made with 100% organic materials to be labeled organic.
FALSE.

In order to be labeled organic, a product must have at least 95% organic ingredients. If it has 70%, the product can be labeled as “made with organic ingredients”. The National Organic Program (NOP) is the federal regulatory agency governing organic food, administered by the USDA. The Organic Food Production Act of 1990 required the USDA develop national standards for organic products, which covers production, processing, delivery and sale of organic products.

When a product is not organic, you can automatically assume that it has some GMO components.
TRUE.

GMO’s are genetically modified organisms that have been altered or developed inside a lab. Food that is not certified organic has at least some traces of GMO’s. High fructose corn syrup and hydrogenated oils are examples of GMO’s that are commonly found in most of today’s processed foods. To Schiffino, what is more perplexing is that fact that when something is not organically certified, you don’t know why it’s not. “When something is certified, it’s absolutely clear, but when not, the consumer is lacking in a lot of information,” she says. There are parts of the world in which more transparency exists when it comes to what’s in your food. In Europe, for example, labeling requirements specify that manufactures have to let consumers know the ingredients that are GMO’s.

You should stay away from the “Dirty Dozen” to reduce pesticides in your diet.
TRUE.

There’s a list of produce that is more prone to absorbing pesticides because of its soft outer layer. These fruits and vegetables have been labeled the “Dirty Dozen”, which include the following:

Celery
Peaches
Strawberries
Apples
Domestic blueberries
Nectarines
Sweet bell peppers
Spinach, kale and collard greens
Cherries
Potatoes
Imported grapes
Lettuce
Source: Environmental Working Group 2010

Jessica Solt, a writer in New York City has been shopping organic for about 1 ½ years. Her wake-up call came after watching the movie Food, Inc, which led her to realize that the food industry was “being tampered with”. For her, it’s money that’s well spent. “If there’s something you can control, it’s that.”

So next time you prepare your sofrito, try to make it with organic celery instead.

Cooking with the Seasons
03.21.11

Preparing the Kale Sautée

This past weekend, in honor of a Spring that shyly approaches, J and jumped into the convertible and headed north to spend our Saturday afternoon in the kitchen. After many wrong turns, we eventually reached our destination: a cooking school tucked into a small strip of businesses right off the highway in upstate Bardonia, NY. Two months ago, we purchased a cooking class at Food Evolution. We were prepared to put our Groupon coupon to the test!

We walked into a warm sliver of a space and were welcomed by our teacher Lori and her assistant Rebecca, two young women who greeted us nonchalantly, completely ignoring the fact that we were very, very late. Their sweet dispositions made us feel as comfortable as the modern yet homey kitchen we had set foot in, stocked with shiny appliances, as well as organic herbs, vegetables, bottles of olive oil and cookbooks. Today’s menu included an array of seasonal dishes that included sautéed kale, quinoa with currants and almonds, roasted chicken with apples, pears and figs, and vanilla-scented poached pears for dessert.

This fabulous kitchen houses Food Evolution, a cooking center focused on a whole food approach which was founded last year by Diane Hoch, a nutritional health counselor. She believes that food supports you physically, spiritually and mentally. As it turned out, the dishes we prepared that afternoon were not only nourishing and delicious, but also helped to define some simple kitchen basics: roasting a chicken is easy, separating the kale leaves from its stems reduces its bitter flavor, and preparing quinoa with a 1:2 (grain to liquid) proportion achieves a fluffy and moist consistency.

While J and I spent most of the afternoon watching Lori and Rebecca in action, the conversation also turned to many aspects of their alternative lifestyle, from juicing to the Dirty Dozen, from hot yoga to gluten-free baking. These choices may initially seem extreme (at least they did to me), but to these two women they were a normal part of their daily life. This attention to health and healthful choices was evident in the food they prepared. The dishes, made with organic produce, spices and meat, were delicious, clean and full of flavor. The kale was delicate and toothsome. The chicken was moist and crispy on the outside, the fruits a tasty garnish reminiscent of the holidays. The quinoa was fluffy and moist, sweet and crunchy.

At the end, I’m not sure if it was the food or the company, but we walked out into the late afternoon light feeling happy and relaxed. Creating wholesome dishes can be incredibly satisfying, forcing you to be more creative in the kitchen or as J said, be a good way to “get out of the broccoli-pasta rut”.

So you think you can Cuban?
06.14.09

I don’t know what it is about the media these days that has me finding inspiration in the most random of places. This week I began watching one of my favorite shows of all time: So you think you dance? Alright alright, I’m a total  fan. There, I said it. 

In search for something to eat that would get my taste buds moving, I decided to visit Margon Restaurant, a tiny, loud Cuban eatery located in Midtown, on 46th street and 6th Avenue. Undettered by the unassuming entrance, I went inside and found myself in what at first seemed like a comfort food haven. On the left side of this small space was a cornucopia of trays brimming with beef stew, roasted chicken, red beans, yellow and white rice, plantains, octopus and avocado salads, and other Cuban classics. 

The place was buzzing with regulars, young preppy employees from nearby offices, tough-looking construction workers seeking to refuel on their break, and a couple of adventurous tourists finishing their coffee and flans while studying maps of the city. The place was definitely alive and vibrant with energy, people in line, ordering, eating, waiting for empty seats, talking and laughing. This place is a far cry from a restaurant, it’s more like a cafeteria, but is somewhere you can easily become a regular, offering simple, hearty home-cooked Latin fare.

Although the food seemed every bit authentic at first, transporting me to some forgotten spot in Miami’s Little Havana, the overall experience left me disappointed. I ordered the roasted chicken, white rice, red beans and maduros(sweet ripe plantains). The food was served not in a plate, but in an aluminum container. Had they run out of plates? 

The rice was fresh and red beans creamy and delicious, but the roasted chicken was swimming in an oily mess and the avocado was overly mushy and past its prime. Everybody else around me didn’t seem to mind, however. It is a place where you don’t have to worry about being too loud, where you can easily disappear into the crowd. 

I had read about Margon on www.midtownlunch.com, a blog that deemed it a culinary institution, raving about its Cuban sandwich and fruit shakes. I didn’t get the chance to taste either of these and perhaps I’ll have to if I ever go back. In the meantime, I’ll stick to giving my palate a whirl with my own versions of Cuban at home.

Artisanal Empanadas
05.27.09

Empanadas galore from the Emporium

Empanadas galore at the Emporium

Today, the artisanal food movement is alive and thriving, gaining momentum as our country’s palate is consciously moving away from the mass-produced  to carefully, lovingly developed foods created by real people with a passion. 
Now it’s made its way into Latin cooking. The Empanada Emporium brings us artisanal empanadas, golden scalloped pockets of delicate dough filled with simple fresh ingredients.  Its owner is Paul Delbo, a Latin American foodie from Miami who’s recently launched the site www.empanadaemporium.com, offering a convenient way to savor these delicious creations at home.
Delbo, originally from Argentina, decided to depart from the traditional Argentinian recipes which are typically found at restaurants(ei.beef, chicken, ham & cheese) and spice things up with more eclectic, international flavors in his empanadas. Favorites include the Austin, packed with marinated ground beef, roasted red peppers, onions and jalapeños, and the Havana, the latest flavor to be added to the menu, which is inspired by the Cuban Ropa Vieja shredded beef dish which is comfort food to so many. 
Delbo perfected his empanada-making skills at a culinary school in Argentina and has recently been experimenting with flavored doughs such as whole wheat, roasted red pepper, spinach and chipotle. These he’s hoping to incorporated into the menu along with sweet and miniature varieties. In creating their empanadas, he has chosen to stick with “clean ‘pronounceable’ ingredients,” says his wife Natalia Obregón, “basically, back to basics with an emphasis on quality and flavor.” 
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